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Into Thin Air

Jon Krakauer

Into Thin Air

21min

21min

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Into Thin Air is the story of the tragedy that occurred in 1996, when members of three different expeditions simultaneously attempting to climb Everest were caught in a horrific storm. Journalist Jon Krakauer, who was part of the group, painstakingly reports on the adventure that cost a total of 8 lives, as well as providing a wide range of background information and history on the World’s highest peak. His account of this pivotal ascent of Mount Everest led to a general reevaluation of climbing methods and of the commercialization of what was once an all-consuming, solitary sport, representing the ultimate challenge between man and the elements.

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Analysis and key concepts

01.

In March 1996, Jon Krakauer, journalist, and mountaineer, took part in the Everest expedition led by Rob Hall, as a correspondent for Outside magazine. During the ascent on 10th May 1996, eight members of three different expeditions died trying to reach the summit

02.

The highest peak on the planet was identified and certified in 1852, but only 101 years later did humans begin to climb the summit of Mount Everest

03.

The routes taken to climb Everest were closely linked to political conditions: the first expeditions passed through Tibet and aimed for the north side, until 1949, when Nepal opened its borders and climbers shifted their attention to the south side of the peak

04.

In 1985 the myth and mystery surrounding the world’s greatest peak was broken when a rich 55-year-old Texan was ushered to the top by a guide. This opened the floodgates for inexperienced climbers to take on Everest

05.

May 1996: the perfect storm. All the worst possible conditions come together in one night, bringing the expedition to a tragic end

06.

The climb had been carefully organised and meticulously planned. Each stage had been tested, including the phases of adaptation to the lack of oxygen at high altitude

07.

Crowding was believed to be the main factor that caused the tragedy: as well as the two expeditions lead by Hall and Fisher, there were others further up the mountain, and a number of the climbers were inexperienced

08.

The final act: from Camp IV, located on the South Col, the expeditions depart for the summit. Meanwhile, weather conditions leave a really narrow window for any attempt to make the final ascent

09.

The deadline: to enable most of the climbers to reach the summit, Hall fails to avoid the most serious of all mountaineering violations by not ordering the turnaround at the established time, which Fisher had not even specified

10.

Quotes

11.

Take-home message

01. In March 1996, Jon Krakauer, journalist, and mountaineer, took part in the Everest expedition led by Rob Hall, as a correspondent for Outside magazine. During the ascent on 10th May 1996, eight members of three different expeditions died trying to reach the summit

When Jon Krakauer reached the summit of Mount Everest in the early afternoon of 10th May, he hadn't slept in fifty-seven hours, and was battling the effects of the lack of oxygen to his brain. As he began the long and dangerous descent, about twenty climbers were still wilfully climbing towards the top while the sky began to cloud over, none of them apparently noticing the ominous change in the weather. Six hours later, and 1000 metres below, while a storm with seventy knot winds and blinding snow swept the summit, Krakauer, exhausted by the cold, tiredness and the effects of altitude sickness, reached base camp. Only the following morning did he learn that six of his climbing companions had not returned. When the storm passed, five of them had been confirmed dead, and the sixth ended up having his nose and right hand amputated. The death toll from that ascent turned out to be 8 (plus a ninth the following day); the worst ever, in just one single climbing season on Everest.

02. The highest peak on the planet was identified and certified in 1852, but only 101 years later did humans begin to climb the summit of Mount Everest

03. The routes taken to climb Everest were closely linked to political conditions: the first expeditions passed through Tibet and aimed for the north side, until 1949, when Nepal opened its borders and climbers shifted their attention to the south side of the peak

04. In 1985 the myth and mystery surrounding the world’s greatest peak was broken when a rich 55-year-old Texan was ushered to the top by a guide. This opened the floodgates for inexperienced climbers to take on Everest

05. May 1996: the perfect storm. All the worst possible conditions come together in one night, bringing the expedition to a tragic end

06. The climb had been carefully organised and meticulously planned. Each stage had been tested, including the phases of adaptation to the lack of oxygen at high altitude

07. Crowding was believed to be the main factor that caused the tragedy: as well as the two expeditions lead by Hall and Fisher, there were others further up the mountain, and a number of the climbers were inexperienced

08. The final act: from Camp IV, located on the South Col, the expeditions depart for the summit. Meanwhile, weather conditions leave a really narrow window for any attempt to make the final ascent

09. The deadline: to enable most of the climbers to reach the summit, Hall fails to avoid the most serious of all mountaineering violations by not ordering the turnaround at the established time, which Fisher had not even specified

10. Quotes

11. Take-home message

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Many useful tips to:

  • Find out about the history of the highest mountain in the world, and the many who have attempted to climb it.
  • Get a real sense of the adventure and perils of climbing Everest.
  • Learn of the events which caused the tragedy that took place there in 1996.

Journalist and climber Jon Krakauer has written eight books, and received an Academy Award in Literature from the American Academy of Arts and Letters for his ability to combine the “tenacity and courage of the finest tradition of investigative journalism with the stylish subtlety and profound insight of a born writer.” Krakauer told the tale of Rob Hall's Everest expedition in an article for Outside, on which he had been sent as a correspondent, and then again in the first book published on the Everest tragedy of May 1996.

Publishing house:

Anchor

Year:

1999

Pages:

332

ISBN:

978-0385494786